By Paul Caputo

The little known Hungarian grape Juhfark never fails to instigate a few laughs around the tasting table. Such unfortunate phonetics shouldn’t derail our attention though. There’s plenty to like about it.

Grown mainly in the volcanic soils of Nagy Somló, and on the highly acclaimed Somló hill, that stands lonely in western Hungary between the higher peaks of the Bakony Mountains on east and the long plains of Kisalföld to the northwest, it is capable of producing intriguing wines.

The best seem to deliver concentrated notes of apricot as well as a whole myriad of floral aromas. Sadly, many of the examples I’ve tasted recently seem to suffer from a lack of acidity. They were by no means bad wines, I just couldn’t help wishing they were fresher. Despite this, winemakers throughout the region continuously reference its high acidity and ability to create white wines that have some time to evolve in the bottle.