Nero di Troia

By Paul Caputo

Nero di Troia is Puglia’s third most planted black grape variety. It generally grows in the area north of Bari and as far as Foggia. Historically producers have blended it with Montepulciano (and less frequently Primitivo or Negroamaro) in an attempt to curb some of the variety’s natural astringency. Increasingly though we are seeing mono varietal examples. At Mundus Vini 2019 in Germany I judged a very exciting flight of Nero di Troia wines, many of which were four and five years old. The best seem to take on rich cherry fruit but maintain a backbone of tannin and structure. The challenge in Puglia of course is to create a wine with fresh acidity and too often we see red wines made with high sugar levels.