By Paul Caputo

The latest chapter in the story of Timorasso must be built around the world of Walter Massa. His work began in the 1980s as he set about resurrecting what had previously been a fairly common Piedmontese white grape variety. Over the years growers had lost their patience with Timorasso, citing its inconsistent berry size as a reason for uneven ripening. Additionally complaints centred around its inability to develop proper berries to the point where they would literally fall off the vine early on in the growing cycle.

Nevertheless, in the right hands Timorasso could deliver something impressive. In the glass an attractive herbal nose gives way to lively suggestions of citrus and stone fruit, while raging acidity holds it all together. In 2000 there were just two hectares of it planted, but now, there are 300 with a further 150 being planted.